Friday, December 9, 2011

Take A France With Someone

On to France. We boarded a plane in London and flew into Marseilles. Because we're hard core adventure enthusiasts, we changed our travel plans in France at the last minute. (We had also been getting a lot of head tilts when inquiring about Marseilles. No one really had spectacular things to say about it, so we went with our gut.) We chose to keep our flight into Marseilles, take a train into Avignon and stay for a night, then take another train into Carcassonne the next day. This would help break up the train ride to Barcelona.

On the plane to Marseilles, we met a native named Sophie. She had just quit her job as an au pair in London. Apparently the woman she worked for was wretched and one of those mothers that believes her child can do no wrong (we all know one of those). Sophie had worked on improving her English while in the UK, and her level of speaking the language was very impressive. She had questions about America and the way we live, and we fired back with questions we had about France and the culture. She had traveled to New York and Miami before and said Miami was her favorite of the two. "Because of the beach," she said.

I think one of the best things about traveling is meeting new people, learning their culture, and gaining a new perspective. You're better for it.

After struggling to find a way to the train station (and someone that spoke English), we got on a bus that took us into Marseilles. I'd like to point out that those head tilts we got about Marseilles were for good reason. It wasn't something to write home about.

After a semi-short train ride, we arrived in Avignon. Here I have to close my eyes to make sure I can properly give the visible beauty of this city justice. I don't think I can, but let me try.

We emerged from the train station into another time. A medieval masterpiece stood before us. For Avignon, it's all in the details. The city center is surrounded by a stone wall (think castle), giving the exterior the look of a fortress. The train station is right across the street from the main entrance of the ancient city. Blue Christmas lights show the way in, but continue all the way down the road, as far as the eye can see. I felt like I was walking through a winter wonderland. It was breathtaking.

The cobblestone streets are shadowed by stone buildings, intricate with detail and architectural beauty. The doors to some of these buildings are as intricate as the stonework. Imagine giant wooden doors (maybe as tall as two pro basketball players stacked on top of each other), each one different than the other, but sharing a common beauty. One door in particular had immaculate carvings, while the other close by had gold ironwork (think the gates in front of Buckingham Palace). The spirit of Avignon is calm and peaceful, simplistically beautiful.

We stayed at one of the loveliest hotels I've ever seen. Le Boquiers is a family-run establishment that is as warm and inviting as its owners. Our room was on the third floor, the last flight of stairs being a wooden spiral staircase. As if the place couldn't get more charming, wooden beams (painted a happy green) adorned the ceiling of our room. A blue vase of sunflowers sat pleasantly in the corner. The bathroom had two white ceramic sinks mounted in a wooden table.

Dinner... Let me just brag about this for a few sentences. We went to a restaurant (it's a rule to only eat where the locals eat) called L'Epice and Love (pronounced "lay peace and love"). I immediately liked this place because the name is punny - a French-English play on words. The restaurant is smaller than your first apartment, but painted warm colors like orange and red that embrace you as you step inside. The owner Marie, an eclectic lady with a great smile, greeted us with "Bonsoire!" The menu was handwritten (in French), so our waitress (the only one in the place) patiently explained the items in broken English. Desperate to experience an authentic Avignon meal, we asked our waitress to choose her favorites. She led us on a taste-filled journey that left us wanting more despite our full bellies. The first course for me began with salad and baked goat cheese with honey. The first bite was creamy, sweet, rich, and smooth. I finished it quickly. I had never tasted anything more magnificent. Well, until the second course... I was presented with a filet of salmon covered in a basil and tomato sauce. The first bite melted in my mouth. After effortlessly cleaning my plate, dessert arrived in glorious form. Parfait au chocolate noir, a decadent chocolate cake floating atop a lake of creamy custard sauce, topped with real whipped cream. Heaven. The best meal I have ever eaten.

'Authentically Avignon' is what I'd use to describe our time there. The city is now one of my favorites.

If you visit France, don't stop at Paris. Venture to these smaller, history-filled cities to get a true feel for French culture. You will never want to leave.

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